Nissan hard body air condition-How to tell if Air Conditioner Condenser is Good? - Infamous Nissan - Hardbody / Frontier Forums

I like having air conditioning in my vehicles. If you can get all the parts from ONE vehicle, that would be best. From an Ra vehicle, even besterest. If you have the KA24, get the parts from a KA24 vehicle. Things you will need to get, most of which can be used: 1.

Nissan hard body air condition

Nissan hard body air condition

Visit OldGreyBeast's homepage! Remember Me? Poke out these bodyy. I am sure you could pressure test the condensor, the part that would concern me is if it is contaminated! Compressor 2. The Drier to the right of the Condenser has a big switch on the top of conditikn - it will not turn on the Compressor Nissan hard body air condition there is no pressure in the system. This picture was taken after the system was fully assembled and charged up. Find More Posts by fox Find More Posts by jp2code.

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Anyway for now all is good. It is also very hot and humid here where I live. I am all for doing this as R12 as become way to high in price. In short I think it's both low and probably not enough airflow thru it for now. I'm pretty lost without watching this thing do it live. If I can get the friend to add hafd few ozs of the R12 tomorrow to this system that I lost today I will then see if it will cool when I mist the condenser. Nobody but bone yards are maintaining anything to recover that anymore if anything goes wrong - forget it. Vintage alpaca chullo he still around? I checked this morning just lightly touching it and around the Nissan hard body air condition it is not as hot as the line going to condenser from compressor. I replaced one fuel injector iar it about 18 years ago because it started skipping one morning. If so that is Nissan hard body air condition Edmonton anal of a bad condenser was a suggestion of Cornbinder

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I like having air conditioning in my vehicles. If you can get all the parts from ONE vehicle, that would be best. From an Ra vehicle, even besterest. If you have the KA24, get the parts from a KA24 vehicle. Things you will need to get, most of which can be used: 1.

Compressor 2. Compressor bracket with belt tension idler 3. Pressure line to Condenser and support bracket 4. Condenser 5. Hard line from Drier to Evaporator 7. Suction line to Compressor 9. Evaporator drain hose and grommet Evaporator firewall grommet New O-Rings The final filling needs to be done with specialized equipment, so you may need to farm that out.

This is merely the order I installed the parts: Pull the grill off and remove the center support. The Condenser fits into existing holes in the lower panel.

Drier hard line is supposed to be stuffed through the round hole in the upper left, where the wiring connection is shown below. I, however, stuffed it through the lower hole because I thought that's where I got it from below the overflow bottle. My bad. Dual Pressure Switch wiring is tucked behind the headlight, taped out of the way. Drier attachment. Wires should actually go behind bulkhead. This picture was taken after the system was fully assembled and charged up.

Stupid me. Works though. Installing the Evaporator had to wait until another trip into Vernon…. Compressor Bracket is attached to existing bosses in the engine block. Compressor is attached to bracket hard lines are installed in this picture. Shot from the bottom. Removing the splash pan makes this easier. One relay connection is tucked under the wiring harness here. The relay is attached beside an existing relay. Last edited by SkinnyG; at PM. Reason: Re-directed images to my website; curse you, Photobucket!

Find More Posts by SkinnyG. Picked up the correct evaporator. No visible difference other than the suction end. Remove all the clips from the Evaporator housing, carefully separate the two halves, and carefully remove the old Expansion Valve.

I ended up using some pipe wrap from Home Depot, with some tape to help secure it. This should work. Remove the glove box door and rear panel. Notice the extra connector taped to the blower resistor wires. It plugs into the top of the Evaporator housing. Poke out these plugs. Install the evaporator housing into the vehicle. A different plug seals the lines through the firewall. It uses the same hardware though. Dash push button wiring is just hanging right behind this panel. Here it is hooked up to the switch.

Evaporator is already installed. Push button just snaps in place once you remove the blanking cover. Snake the wires around to connect as shown previously. You will need to remove the center trim piece, and pop the heater control ends and bezel off to get at all of this.

Had to chop a hole in the rear panel and deform the glove box a bit to clear the ECU and everything. Or maybe I mis-read it. You will need it. Plugs right in. I used one of the two relays I stole from under the hood of the Pathfinder. Evaporator to Compressor line attaches easily to existing plastic plugs in the firewall. Next, the system is fully evacuated using vacuum to boil out any moisture and charging with Ra and some sort of ester-based oil…… High-pressure retrofit fitting attached.

Reason: Images hosted off my own site. Originally Posted by SkinnyG. The Drier to the right of the Condenser has a big switch on the top of it - it will not turn on the Compressor if there is no pressure in the system. I jumped that switch to make sure everything electrically worked. The ECU also raises the idle speed slightly too - it's all wired to do that already. All times are GMT. The time now is AM. User Name. Remember Me?

Page 1 of 8. Thread Tools. Find More Posts by smpresco Quote: Originally Posted by MurderedOutHardBody oh but one more thing you will need, that is not listed, u will need the 3rd belt for the crank to the ac compressor and bracket. Posting Rules.

Originally posted by Tom Greenleaf View Post. I am sure it would not be a waste on a 27 year old truck. Last month I discovered my Frontier truck had a bad fan clutch, saw that visually and confirmed with the "rolled up newspaper" test, see Google for that; it was 4 years old. I got some cleaner left over from cleaning my pontoons. Our online parts catalog uses real-time inventory, so you can be assured the parts you buy are in stock at the time of ordering. The drive was about 30 miles and never once did the vent temp go above 42 degree. Originally posted by Cusser View Post.

Nissan hard body air condition

Nissan hard body air condition

Nissan hard body air condition

Nissan hard body air condition

Nissan hard body air condition. Throttle Bodies for Nissan D21

Jeez - even tires these mess up with age. In short I think it's both low and probably not enough airflow thru it for now. Check for these things first and see if we can save the Freon which it is. On that I heard of a trick with dry ice and an empty 30lb bottle you can save most of it!

Never tried that but would start with a totally evacuated full vacuum on 30lb tank and freeze it cold does sound like it could work? See what you find with those check and tests,. Same thinking Cornbinder89! Don't see another posting at the same time,.

I might have caused some of the no cooling problem today when I connected my old gauges. It was leaking and I didn't see or hear it. I don't think I lost much but the site glass is showing it is low.

I know this morning it got to 40 degrees when I first drove the truck as I kept the thermometer in the vents. I was also checking what you posted about head pressure. When I mist the condenser the pressure will go down to around from fast. Being I am now low on Freon it will not cool like it did early today Nobody has ever touched this truck so only R 12 has ever been added.

I bought it new in June of and like I mentioned it has been at least 10 years since I last worked on the AC, maybe more because time gets away fast I did noticed two weeks ago when I drove this truck on a 50 mile trip it was blowing mist out the vents like it had froze up. It stopped cooling also so I just shut on the AC. Same thing on the way back. Cooled for the first few miles and then mist coming out and stopped blowing cold air.

This morning it was cold but not now. I also noticed the high pressure line may be leaking coming from the compressor to condenser when I was checking it late today. I think maybe the clutch fan is bad but over all my years working on vehicles I never knew a sure way to test this other than just replacing it. I am sure it would not be a waste on a 27 year old truck. I had the truck painted three years ago and it has new tires on it so I hate to junk it but here in the deep south I don't want to ride in a truck without AC.

To old for that I hate to add any Freon in it now being I see oil around that hose. This old truck looks and rides great so I got to make up my mind if I want to invest any more money in it being I have a new Toyota. I used my infrared thermometer on the high pressure line coming from compressor , it showed degrees.

Where it goes into condenser about degrees. I looked in my workshop and did find one can of Johnsen's Freeze 12 and I am not sure about using this. A person give me this can years ago and it has been sitting since that time. If I can get the friend to add a few ozs of the R12 tomorrow to this system that I lost today I will then see if it will cool when I mist the condenser. If so then I will order the line and clutch fan. I will update you on what I find.

Last month I discovered my Frontier truck had a bad fan clutch, saw that visually and confirmed with the "rolled up newspaper" test, see Google for that; it was 4 years old. On my Mazda truck, seems like my Hayden fan clutch was lifetime warranty when I bought it seems to last about 6 years. Yes, I'm in Arizona. Originally posted by Tom Greenleaf View Post. Sixputt: Freeze 12 is another whole different product catching the name makes you think it's about anything R - it isn't!

Different totally don't mix that in and I don't care for it at all. You do have a sight glass so that removes most doubt on charge. Use it and know you are low. All other discussion on saving what you have is probably worth the effort. It would convert over to a but getting old to make it work real well again. Clutch - all cleaned up I say go ahead and boost it back up via sight glass. Look for more R if you have some more years with this.

Little cans were usually 14oz will say the chemical name - read it off containers for air horns once coast guard kits for boating, horns for just any reason too are still out there so can be side tapped. There's no shortage, it's just a pest to find new stuff. Good luck,. I found one can of the R12 today from a friend who still works on cars and trucks.

I may try and recover it the way you mentioned. Don't have a clue where to buy dry ice? It was the 12 oz can as that's all I ever remember buying and believe me I bought many cans of this back in the 70's and 80's.

Seems like it below 50 cents a can back then? I remember Freon so cheap in the early 70's I would use a can to make a warm 6 pack cold wonder how much money went up in the ozone back then lol if I had saved it. I also tried the test on the clutch fan. I found a piece of thin cardboard and folded it up like you mentioned on the newspaper.

I did stop the fan after it was running long enough to get hot. I actually though about checking it this say way when it cools just to see if this test really works. Never heard of this one until I read here. It has been over 20 years since I last worked on vehicles so hang it with me if I sound stupid I actually still have my card MACS dated June of here at my house. I remember when all this stuff started going sky high but did not buy enough to last me as my friends got most of it after I retired from the garage business in This old can I found today will have to be side tapped as it is rusty and I am sure my can cutter will leak if I try and use it.

I once had a side cutter but don't remember where it is now. Maybe still in my shop that was closed in 97 with all the other American Picker stuff that's in it also I also didn't plan on using the Freeze 12 in my Nissan. I only want the original stuff which was R I may just give it to a man who is also a friend of mine that's still in the business and he can do what he wants with it.

I drink coffee with a man a few days a month who was in the heating and air business commercial for 40 years and he looked at my truck this morning after I connected the old gauges. He seems to think the system is plugged up somewhere like mentioned here. I give it the gas and the high side went to fast and low went to 15 and the truck had been sitting for about an hour plus The discharge line was really hot, so hot it would cause a bad burn if touched.

I checked this morning just lightly touching it and around the drier it is not as hot as the line going to condenser from compressor. I know they get hot but I never remember checking to see how hot in years past. If so that is another indication of a bad condenser was a suggestion of Cornbinder I did that. The pressure dropped but not the vent temperature.

Maybe because I lost some Freon yesterday when checking and didn't catch it until too late. This R12 is gold so I got to decide if I want to top it off with the can I found today or wait until I know for sure whats happening with it. I know for sure its a little low but not sure low enough make it just blow hot air. Back to the drawing board lol.

I took my infrared thermometer and shot it across the condenser taking my time at each area. I think maybe I found a blockage One place on the top row will get to degrees and I move the red dot about two inches and it shows 88 degrees.

Most all the other places on the condenser shows 75 to 88 degrees except that one spot and I checked more than once. I could not get to all the places on the bottom until I remove the grill but that one place shows me there is a problem. It seems to be one spot that is blocked.

I do think you are correct that the condenser is trash. Now what plugged it up could have came from compressor, I am not sure on that one. Maybe age related. I just never thought much about a condenser being the cause but I took my time and shot the infrared all across this thing and that one place stands out.

Thanks for the suggestion on this. Now I got to decide if I want to put this much money in a truck this old. Last edited by sixputt ; , PM. If it were me, and I had to change the condenser, I would fit the biggest capacity generic parallel flow I could fit, and go back with a.

I would also change the fan clutch while I was in there, as you have proved that yours in no good. I get a hint of frost on the outlet of the condenser with temps upper 90's to It is an '83 so R12 from the get go. Never thought I could get it this good on a.

Would I have to change the oil in system if I go with ? I am all for doing this as R12 as become way to high in price. I know I also need a high pressure line because I can see oil on it. Most amazing was the incredib Close X. To return a part, simply submit a support ticket within 30 days of ordering and we will issue you an RMA number to return your product.

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User Name Remember Me? How to tell if Air Conditioner Condenser is Good? The belt was not attached to the compressor, leading me to think it is probably bad.

Before I install these parts on my truck, is there a way to check the compressor to see if it still works? The compressor is an aftermarket, marked RA: Here's the rest of my haul:. Find More Posts by jp2code. Vehicle: If you don't mind, I'd like to know how to test each of the AC pieces to see if they are still okay. I am sure you could pressure test the condensor, the part that would concern me is if it is contaminated!

I would get new o-rings like that needed to be said and a new dryer. I would think if you apply some power to the compressor it should answer your question Its supposed to hit here today and thru the weekend, glad my ac works.. So, if I can apply 12V to the compressor switch, that should engage the clutch.

With the clutch engaged, I should feel light resistance when turning the compressor using its pulley. If it does not turn, the compressor is bad. Are these theories sound? I've already put some other parts on order.

Not shown is the O-Ring kit, which is being shipped by a different vendor. I got the AC box last night. Pressure Switch? What pressure switch? The How To I read gave the part number for the drier, but didn't say anything about needing to buy a damn pressure switch, too! This shit is eating a hole in my wallet. How much are those bastards? I have my Discover Card linked to my Amazon account, so if there is some cash back available on my Discover Card, I can use those rewards points to bring down the total hit of the Amazon transaction.

Beats the hell out of Frequent Flier miles, which are useless to me because I never go anywhere. All times are GMT. The time now is AM. User Name. Remember Me? Page 1 of 3. Thread Tools. OldGreyBeast Visit OldGreyBeast's homepage! Find More Posts by cadillacdude What are reward points and how do I get them.

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Nissan hard body air condition